Highland bread

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Over a couple of weekends, Bergin plied his craft with generous transparency for this story, which in no way sullied the lovely mystery of why his baked goods taste so good. The 300 hundred or so pastries (chocolate, plain and jambon croissants) the morning buns and their cardamom cousins and the 24 dark-crusted country loaves are typically gone by 8:45.

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The span from starting work to opening the door to that first diligent customer is about 38 hours. Since Bergin opened his tiny bakery in May, the queue of customers begins in earnest around 7:30 on most Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. “I think the earliest we’ve ever had someone outside is 6:30,” said baker-owner Shawn Bergin, peering out the steam-frosted storefront window.

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There was still an hour yet before Bakery Four opened its doors at 8. Two cars sat idling on 32nd Avenue in North Denver’s Highland neighborhood. It was one of the coldest mornings in what had been a mild November. Saturday, October 14th 2023 Home Page Close Menu

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